What is Cashmere? 

Learn how to judge cashmere by measurable quality markers, understand origin and supply realities, avoid misleading labels, and choose the right cloth for your life.

By Barucci Custom Tailors London

Key Takeaways: Cashmere's softness is mostly fibre diameter (microns) plus how cleanly guard hair is removed. Cashmere's warmth comes from loft and construction (yarn, knit, weave, weight), not just the word “cashmere.” Origin is real, but consistency and traceability come from grading, processing, and chain-of-custody controls. “Fake” is usually misleading labelling or poor disclosure, not a dramatic counterfeit. Cashmere is not fragile, it simply needs calm care and correct de-pilling.

You are standing under shop lights that do not forgive. A scarf is looped once around your neck. A coat cloth is pinched between finger and thumb. The question is not “Is it cashmere?” The question is, “Will this still feel like a good decision in three winters?”

Cashmere can absolutely earn its place in a wardrobe, but only if you buy it like a grown-up: by numbers, by construction, by provenance that can be checked, and by care you will actually do. 

Reality Check (Before you Buy) The softest handle in the shop is not always the longest wearing. “100% cashmere” tells you fibre content, not quality grade or construction. Pilling early can happen even in excellent cashmere, especially in low twist knits. Supply chain opacity is normal unless a brand can show traceability. Sustainability claims vary wildly, so look for standards and scope, not adjectives.

What it is (technical definition, but interesting)

Cashmere is the fine undercoat fibre of certain goats, separated from coarser outer hairs (guard hair) and then spun or woven into textiles. The buyer-relevant point is this: “cashmere” is not a single quality level, it is a fibre category with a wide performance spread.

Here is what your hand is trying to tell you, in measurable terms:

• Soft correlates strongly with fibre diameter, measured in microns. Finer fibres bend more easily against the skin, which reduces “prickle.” Many cashmere fibres sit roughly in the mid-teens to 19 microns, with finer commanding higher premiums. 

• Luxury often means rarity plus processing. Raw fleece is a mix of down and guard hair. Only part becomes usable “dehaired” cashmere, so yield matters. One open-access study summarises typical ranges for raw cashmere: down yield can range widely, and reported averages include mid-teen to high-teen microns and staple lengths measured in centimetres.

• Warm (the feeling you want in a scarf or coat) comes from loft and air-trapping structure, which is influenced by fibre fineness, yarn construction, and fabric density. “Warmth per weight” is often why people love it, but construction decides whether it performs or merely sounds expensive.

If you remember one thing: fibre name is the start of the story, not the ending.

Brief history (one vivid fact, one clear takeaway)

Cashmere’s European myth was shaped by the arrival of Kashmir-style shawls in the 18th and 19th centuries, where “cashmere” became shorthand for softness with status. The takeaway for modern buyers is simple: the romance is old, but the supply chain is now industrial, global, and variable. You can enjoy the poetry, but you should buy the engineering.

Global trade or supply chain (simple, authoritative)

Most cashmere starts life in hard climates where goats grow a fine insulating undercoat, then shed it seasonally. Two regions dominate the modern conversation: Inner Mongolia and Mongolia, both heavily linked into global processing and manufacturing networks. 

A simplified chain looks like this:

Three buyer consequences fall out of that chain:

1. Consistency improves when sorting, grading, and spinning are tightly controlled.

2. Traceability is only possible when chain-of-custody records exist beyond the farm gate.

3. Price reflects not only fibre but also loss and labour at each stage, especially dehairing and quality control.

Harvesting is typically done during the natural shedding season, commonly described as spring combing rather than shearing, because combing better targets the fine undercoat and can reduce coarse hair inclusion.

Technical specs or quality markers (what matters in real life)

Let us turn “soft, warm, luxury” into a buyer checklist you can use on a coat, scarf, or tailoring cloth.

1) Fibre diameter (microns)

• What it measures: average thickness of fibres.

• Why you care: lower micron usually feels softer and can pill differently depending on twist and finishing.

• What to ask for: brands rarely print micron on labels, but better retailers and cloth merchants can often specify ranges by quality tier.

In the United States, the term “cashmere” on labels is tied to a fibre definition that includes an average diameter limit and limits on coarse fibres.

2) Staple length (fibre length)

• What it measures: average fibre length, often discussed in millimetres.

• Why you care: longer fibres generally spin into stronger yarns and can reduce fuzz and pilling when construction is good.
  SFA notes staple length ranges commonly cited around a few centimetres (tens of millimetres).

3) Guard hair removal (dehairing quality)

• What it measures: how thoroughly coarse outer hairs are removed.

• Why you care: leftover coarse hairs can feel prickly, look shiny in an odd way, and reduce perceived quality.

4) Yarn construction (ply and twist)

• Ply: two-ply means two strands twisted together, often stronger and more stable than a very loose single.

• Twist: higher twist can pill less and wear longer, but may feel less “cloud soft” in the shop.

If you want one practical rule: a knit that feels slightly “firm” and springy often behaves better than a knit that feels like mist.

5) Fabric construction (knit vs woven, and density)

• Scarves and knitwear: look for evenness, good recovery after stretching, and a surface that is not already shedding.

• Coats and tailoring cloth: weight and density matter. A light, open cloth can feel luxurious but may not hold shape or resist abrasion in real city wear.

Practical shortlist:

If you are buying a scarf (next-to-skin):

• Prioritise lower microns and excellent dehairing.

• Choose a construction with enough twist to resist immediate fuzzing.

• If you commute, accept that friction points (coat lapels, bag straps) will test it.

If you are buying a cashmere coat or overcoat cloth:

• Prioritise density and recovery, not just softness.

• Ask for weight guidance for your climate and how you travel (walking vs car).

• Consider a blend with wool for shape and abrasion resistance if the coat will be a workhorse.

If you are choosing cashmere-blend tailoring fabric:

• Decide what cashmere is doing in the blend: softness, drape, or hand feel.

• Ask how the fabric is finished and whether it is designed for daily wear or occasional wear.

• Avoid blends that are described vaguely but priced confidently.

If you would like to explore the cashmere garment options, you can book an appointment here: Book the Appointment or call tel:+442039251000. We will translate “soft” into specifics you can feel and compare calmly.

How the Cashmere compare for different products

Item type	What to prioritise	What to avoid	Good sign in-hand
Scarf	Low microns, clean dehairing, balanced twist	Surface already shedding	Smoothness without shine
Knitwear	Ply and twist, recovery, even knitting	Ultra-loose “fluffy” knit for daily wear	Springy feel, consistent texture
Overcoat cloth	Density, recovery, appropriate weight	Overly open weave for heavy use	Crisp pinch-back, stable drape
Tailoring blend	Purposeful blend ratio, finishing, durability	Vague “luxury blend” claims	Clean surface, shape retention

7 facts (snackable, surprising, true)

1. “100% cashmere” is not a quality grade, it is a fibre statement.

2. Fine cashmere is measured in microns, and the difference between “nice” and “exceptional” can be a few microns. (Sustainable Fibre Alliance)

3. Dehairing is not a minor detail, it is the difference between soft luxury and quiet disappointment.

4. Pilling is friction plus loose fibres, and it can happen to excellent yarn if twist is low and wear is hard. (woolmark.com)

5. A dense woven coat cloth can outperform a softer, looser one in real city use.

6. Traceability is a system, not a story. If a brand cannot explain chain-of-custody, it is usually not there. (Sustainable Fibre Alliance)

7. Climate shocks and grazing pressure both matter in the sustainability debate, and serious conversations now treat it as a landscape and livelihoods issue, not a slogan. (ieg.worldbankgroup.org)

Industry and culture reference (tasteful, no gossip)

In British winter dressing, cashmere often shows up in the quiet places: a scarf that sits under a coat collar without bulk, a soft jacket cloth that still holds a line, a knit that looks refined rather than sporty. It is not loud. It is simply comforting, and it makes other garments feel better behaved.

The cultural point is this: cashmere is at its best when it supports the silhouette and the wearer, rather than demanding attention for itself.

Maintenance (modern, realistic routine)

Cashmere lasts when you treat it like a fine surface, not a fragile object.

• Air it often, wash it less. Let garments rest between wears so fibres recover.

• Wash gently when needed. Use a cool, gentle method appropriate to the label. Avoid harsh agitation.

• Dry flat. Gravity stretches knits. Flat drying protects shape.

• Depill early, lightly. A fabric comb or cashmere comb used gently keeps the surface looking intentional. Woolmark’s care guidance on pilling is a useful general reference for animal fibres. 

• Store clean. Clean before storage, then store dry and protected.

“Fragile” is often just “poor routine plus high friction.” You can fix that.

Verdict (calm, confident, links back to the reader’s high-stakes moment)

If you want a cashmere piece that feels like luxury after the first thrill fades, buy for construction and use case first, then chase softness inside those boundaries. For scarves, prioritise fineness and dehairing. For coats and tailoring cloth, prioritise density, recovery, and realistic wear patterns, then choose the hand feel you love.

And if you would like the decision to feel settled, not guessed: a consultation should give you side-by-side cloth handling, plain-English explanations (microns, weight, weave, finishing), and a clear made-to-measure timeline measured in weeks, not promises. Bring questions about where you will wear it, how you travel, how you store it, and what you will tolerate in care.

To compare cashmere options from established mills and choose the right weight for your lifestyle, book here. or call tel:+442039251000. We will help you choose a cloth that looks premium in year three, not just minute one.

 

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FAQs (Professor Polyester asks, cashmere answers)

1) Professor Polyester asks: “What does ‘cashmere’ legally mean, beyond vibes?”
It means a defined fibre category, and in some jurisdictions it includes measurable limits on fibre diameter and coarse hair content. Practical tip: if the brand cannot state fibre composition clearly, treat the claim as marketing, not labeling.
Click here: To read the FTC definition of cashmere

2) Professor Polyester asks: “How do I avoid ‘fake’ cashmere on labels?”
Start with the fibre percentage and the exact fibre names, because vague terms hide blends. Practical tip: look for a clear “X% cashmere” statement and avoid descriptions that replace composition with fluff.
Click here: To check UK textile labelling requirements

3) Professor Polyester asks: “If it pills, does that mean it’s low quality?”
No, pilling is often friction plus loose surface fibres, and it can happen even in good yarn. Practical tip: reduce abrasion (bag straps, rough outerwear) and depill lightly early rather than letting pills felt down.
Click here: To understand pilling and prevention

4) Professor Polyester asks: “Microns sound like nerd theatre. Do they matter?”
Yes, micron is one of the clearest predictors of next-to-skin softness. Practical tip: if a scarf is for bare neck wear, prioritise fineness and clean dehairing over extreme fluffiness.
Click here: To learn how cashmere fineness is measured

5) Professor Polyester asks: “What should ‘cashmere blend’ actually tell me?”
It should tell you the fibre names and percentages, because “blend” alone is meaningless. Practical tip: if a garment is sold in the EU, fibre naming and composition rules apply, so the label should not be ambiguous.
Click here: To read the EU textile fibre naming and labelling regulation

6) Professor Polyester asks: “Do certifications really address sustainability, or is it just paperwork?”
Some standards do address defined issues, but each has scope limits. Practical tip: ask what the standard covers (animal welfare, land management, chain-of-custody) and what it does not claim to cover.
Click here: To review the SFA Sustainable Cashmere Standard scheme overview

7) Professor Polyester asks: “Does The Good Cashmere Standard cover welfare, land, or traceability?”
It sets criteria for cashmere goat management and broader farm and auditing requirements, focused on its defined programme scope. Practical tip: look for programme identification and how certified material is handled through the supply chain.
Click here: To read The Good Cashmere Standard (AbTF)

8) Professor Polyester asks: “Is the environmental concern real, or exaggerated?”
It is real, but nuanced, and it sits at the intersection of grazing pressure, mobility, and climate shocks. Practical tip: prefer brands that acknowledge land management and livelihoods, not just “eco” language.
Click here: To read World Bank analysis on Mongolia’s rangelands

About Barucci Custom Tailors London Based in London, we help clients choose cloth with clarity, then cut and make garments to suit real lives. We offer fabric guidance for cashmere, cashmere blends, and winter tailoring weights, with calm comparisons you can feel. Next step: book an appointment or call to discuss what you need from the piece before you buy.